Ressence is one of the lesser known, very small independent watchmakers who have been making waves within the cognoscenti. The watches are catagorised by Types – the Type 1, the Type 3 and the most complicated (to date) the Type 5. This release for SIHH 2017 is the new grey dial for the Type 5.
The Ressence Type 5G
The case remains all titanium and like the other members of the Type 5 family is has true underwater capability…the catch phrase from Ressence is “for the gentleman diver, whether he’s in the water or in town.”
The Type 5 is the only mechanical watch to be perfectly readable underwater regardless of the viewing angle. Sinn makes an EZM 2, which makes the same readability claim, but the Sinn is equipped with a quartz movement.
The oil filled upper chamber ensures that the dial is readable underwater from all angles.
Typically, when under the water, a traditional diver’s watch needs to be viewed straight on in order to be read properly – otherwise refraction turns the glass into a mirror. But not with an oil-filled watch: this gives it complete legibility whatever the angle of view. To enable readability under water at all angles, the Sinn EZM2 fills the entire space inside the case with a silicon oil. This brings the added benefit of a big depth rating…Sinn calculates it to be 11,000ft without having to use a huge case and crystal like the Rolex Deep Sea Challenge does.
In the case of the Ressence, the case is divided into parts, the upper part which includes the dial and module, is completely filled with oil (37.5ml), making use of total internal reflection to enable the full dial to be visible underwater at any angle. The lower part houses a regular ETA 2824/2 modified to drive a magnetic transmission system to connect the two separate sealed chambers. And though the dial sits some distance from the upper sapphire glass, the liquid makes it look like the dial is on the underside of the glass.
The Ressence Type 5G, with a grey dial.
There are other advantages too: the oil keeps the 142 components of the ROCS (in-house patented complication module) constantly lubricated. And since they are suspended in a liquid, they are lighter and hence require less power to move, which in turn improves time-keeping. The result is a watch both functional and more ergonomic than traditional diver’s pieces.
The Type 5G is designed to be able to withstand extreme conditions.
The lume shot. Ultra bright Superluminova enables good legibility in the dark. Note that though the entire dial and subdials constantly move, the position of the hour and minute hands are always at the same positions that one would expect from a regular watch, enabling it to be read easily at a glance.
Dial and case become one. The titanium discs, rings and bezel are all microbilled and amplify the visual impact of the unique all grey look. The watch’s appearance is fresh and modern Extra strong blue SuperLuminova ensures the readability of the Type 5 in all lighting conditions.
The case is reminiscent of sea turtles, smooth to the touch, and streamlined.
The organic design of the Type 5 takes its inspiration from nature, specifically sea turtles. Their distinct aqua-dynamic shape means they are best able to propel themselves easily through the water. An apt design inspiration for an amphibious watch.
The ROCS system, a unique 3 dimensional revolving bridge architecture on the left, and the magnetic transmission on the right.
The hydraulic shock absorber system on the left and the bellow system on the right.
Type 5 capitalises on the 6 Ressence technical solutions based on physical principles: Display by discs, No crown, Oil-filled, Bellow system, Magnetic transmission and Hydraulic shock absorber (sea above for more details).
The Type 5 is available in three executions:
-Type 5B, black dial and polished/satin titanium finish.
-Type 5BB, black dial and black DLC finish.
-Type 5G, grey dial and polished/microbilled titanium finish (this release).
Ressence Type 5G Technical Specifications
Functions
Hours
Minutes
Shock absorber (90 Seconds Runner)
Oil Temperature
Movement
Patented ROCS 5 – Ressence Orbital Convex System – driven by the minute axle of a specially
customised 2824/2 calibre
Caseback winding and time setting with RCLS – Ressence Compression Lock System
Magnetic Transmission
Compensating Bellow System for the oil (7 Bellows)
Hydraulic Shock Absorber
Self-winding
36 hours power reserve
28,800 vibrations per hour
41 jewels
25 gears
Dial
Convex microbilled grade 5 titanium dial (125mm radius) with 3 eccentric biaxial satellites
inclined at 3° (hours), 4.75° (thermal gauge and seconds)
Engraved indications filled with Superluminova
Case
Microbilled grade 5 titanium
Two separate sealed chambers with the upper one filled with 37.5 ml of oil
Domed sapphire crystals top and bottom with both sides anti-reflective coating
Uni-directional bezel
46mm (diameter) x 15.5 mm (thickness)
10 ATM water-resistance
Buckle and Strap
Ardillon Buckle in grade 5 titanium
Brown cordovan or grey alligator (24/22mm)
Total components
324
Price
€ 31,500 (incl 20% VAT)
